Sunday, February 20, 2011

Mmm. Meat.

Today's creations were heavily meat-focused. I totally caved to the impulse-buy phenomenon of grabbing the pretty cooking magazine on my way through the checkout line yesterday, and, determined to justify my purchase, made two of the recipes today. The magazine was the Cook's Illustrated Soups and Stews issue, and both of the recipes I made were very tasty.

It was another cold day in Phoenix, which is probably why I gravitated to the meaty recipes first. I did adapt the recipes to make them a little leaner, but I don't think they suffered in taste. I've reproduced the recipes below as I made them.

Enjoy.

Menu:
Russian-Style Beef and Cabbage Soup
Carne Adovada

Russian-Style Beef and Cabbage Soup
adapted from Cook's Illustrated Soups and Stews 2011

Serves 6

3/4 lb lean beef brisket, trimmed and cut into 1/2" pieces
1 tsp canola oil
1 medium onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
4 c beef broth
4 c chicken broth
2 bay leaves
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2" pieces
1/2 small head savoy cabbage, cored and shredded
1/2 c sauerkraut, rinsed
dried dill
sour cream, for serving (optional)

1. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat and add the beef. Stir until mostly browned, about 5 minutes.
2. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook for about 30 seconds.
3. Stir in the broth and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer and cook, covered, for 30 minutes.
4. Stir in carrots, cabbage, and sauerkraut. Cover partially and simmer another 30 minutes.
5. Pour about 1 1/2 cups of the soup into bowls and garnish with dill and sour cream.

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Carne Adovada
adapted from Cook's Illustrated Soups and Stews 2011

The original recipe called for boneless pork butt roast, but I used tenderloin to make it leaner. The tenderloin worked perfectly and was fork-tender after the braise.

serves 6

1/2 c brewed coffee, hot
1/4 c raisins
1/3 c chili powder (I used 4 dried ancho chiles and pulverized them in the blender)
3 T flour
1 tsp oregano, dried
3 lb pork tenderloin, trimmed and cut into 1" cubes
2 tsp canola oil, divided
1 medium onion, diced
6 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 tsp dried chipotle chile powder, or more to taste
1 T tomato paste
2 c chicken broth
cilantro and limes for garnish
corn tortillas for serving

1. Combine coffee and raisins in a small bowl and let sit until raisins have plumped, about 5 minutes.
2. Heat 1 tsp oil in a large Dutch oven and brown the pork, about 5 minutes. Do this in batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding.
3. Remove the pork to a bowl.
4. Add the onions and garlic to the juices in the pot and cook over medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the chile powders, flour, and oregano. Stir in the remaining tsp of oil.
5. Stir in the broth and raisin-coffee mixture. In a blender or using an immersion blender, puree the sauce until smooth.
6. Add the pork back to the sauce in the pot and bring to a simmer.
7. Heat the oven to 325F.
8. Cover the pot and braise in the oven for about two hours, stirring halfway through to make sure it has not gotten too dry.
9. Serve with cilantro, limes, and tortillas.

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Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Smother Me With Some Comfort--It's Cooooold Out There!

Too. Cold. To. Type. Witty. Intro.

Smothered Kielbasa with Barley
adapted from Cooking Light January/February 1998

This was a very loose adaptation because I couldn't bear the thought of going outside to get ingredients from the store. Seriously, people, it's Arctic here in the desert today. I don't think it ever got above 45F. I suffer.

I've never made the original recipe, which called for chicken thighs, bell pepper, mint, and some other changes, and is raved about by the ladies on the Cooking Light chat board. I liked my Southwest version just fine! If the addition of cinnamon sounds too exotically Moroccan for your tastes, you can leave it out without missing it.

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Serves 4

cooking spray
1/2 of an onion, sliced vertically
1 poblano chile pepper, charred, peeled, and diced
12-oz turkey kielbasa, sliced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3/4 teaspoon chili powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/8 teaspoon ground chipotle pepper
2 cups low-salt chicken broth
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 cup uncooked pearl barley
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes -- drained
a few handfuls of baby spinach, for serving (optional)

1) In a large skillet coated with cooking spray, saute the onion, pepper, kielbasa, and spices for 5 minutes or until the onion is starting to soften.

2)Add the broth and wine and bring to a boil. Add the barley and tomatoes, reduce heat to a simmer, cover and cook for 30 minutes.

3) Uncover and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Check to make sure the barley is done (it should be soft but chewy). Serve over spinach, if desired.

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Ain't No Scurvy Here...

Now is the time when many of my meals take on an orange hue. In an effort to use up the over-abundance of oranges on our tree, I drink, eat, and cook with oranges for practically the entire winter. We should all have such troubles.


Menu:
Seared Scallops with Orange-Sesame Glaze
Orange-Scented Basmati Rice
Steamed Spinach


Seared Scallops with Orange-Sesame Glaze

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Serves 2

2 T low-sodium soy sauce
1/4 c water
2 T maple syrup or honey
1/4 c orange juice
zest of 1/2 an orange, cut into strips
2 pieces star anise (optional)
1 coin of fresh ginger
1 dried chipotle pepper, or a pinch of ground chipotle
1/2 tsp Chinese sichuan peppercorns (optional)
1 1/2 pounds large scallops, patted dry with a paper towel
1/2 tsp canola oil, divided
salt and pepper
1 tsp toasted sesame seeds

1. Make the glaze: combine soy sauce through sichuan peppercorns, if using, in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 15 minutes (do this while the rice is cooking). Turn up to a boil again and boil for 2-3 minutes or until reduced to a thick syrup. Do not allow to burn.
2. Heat half of the oil in a hot skillet. Arrange half of the scallops in the pan, being careful not to crowd them. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sear for 2 minutes, then flip and sear until just barely opaque, about 1 more minute. Remove from heat and repeat with remaining oil and scallops.
3. Drizzle the glaze over the scallops and sprinkle with sesame seeds before serving.


Orange-Scented Basmati Rice

1 1/2 cups vegetable broth
1/2 cup orange juice
1 cup basmati rice

1. Bring the broth and juice to a boil in a saucepan. Add the rice and reduce heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest for 5 minutes.
2. Fluff with a fork before serving.

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Thursday, January 27, 2011

Pop Quiz!

We were traveling much of last week and did not do any cooking. I challenged my chef-y friends to come up with something tasty using the ingredients on hand...here's what Heather made (and I can't wait to make it myself!):

Addendum: I made this for dinner tonight, and it was superb. My changes:
1) I used 1 cup sliced leeks instead of the green onions and shallot
2)I used dried dill in place of the marjoram
3)I threw a parmesan rind in just for fun
4)I drizzled balsamic vinegar over the soup just before serving
5) I served it over steamed kale

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Lentil-Barley Soup
adapted from myrecipes.com

2 teaspoons canola oil
4 scallions, white and light green parts, chopped
1 shallot, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
3 cups vegetable broth
1 cup water
3/4 cup beer (Midas Touch by Dogfishhead)
1 cup chopped carrot
1 cup chopped parsnip
1 cup chopped celery
1 tsp dried marjoram
1/4 cup uncooked pearl barley
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup dried lentils
1/4 teaspoon salt

1. Heat oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add garlic, green onion, and shallot to pan; sauté 2 minutes. Add broth, 1 cup water, and beer; bring to a boil.
2. Add chopped carrot and next 8 ingredients (through bay leaves); return to a boil. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer for 15 minutes.
3. Stir in lentils; cover and cook 30 minutes. Discard bay leaves.
4. Place 1 1/2 cups broth mixture in a blender. Remove the center piece of blender lid (to allow steam to escape); secure blender lid on blender. Place a clean towel over opening in blender lid (to avoid splatters). Blend until smooth. Return pureed mixture to pan, and stir in salt.
5. Return mixture to a boil; cover, reduce heat, and simmer 10 minutes or until thoroughly heated, stirring occasionally.

I had intended to make the soup for lunch, but the day got away from me. So while it was simmering, I made this super steamed kale salad to tide me over.

Steamed Kale Salad

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cooking spray
1/2 cup red onion, vertically sliced
1/2 cup mushrooms, sliced
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp crushed red pepper
2-3 cups torn kale, rinsed
1/2 oz shaved parmesan cheese
1 tsp balsamic vinegar

1. Saute the onions, mushrooms, and garlic in the cooking spray until soft. Sprinkle the red pepper in and stir.
2. Put the kale in the pan and cover. Steam in the rinse water for 5 minutes until wilted.
3. Pile the kale/mushroom mixture on a plate, sprinkle the shaved parmesan over top, and drizzle with balsamic vinegar.

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Healthful Indian!

Tonight's dinner came from two new cookbooks I received for Christmas (thanks, Deb!). We don't have cable anymore (and don't miss it!) so I never watch the Food Network, but I guess these ladies are quite popular. Well, we enjoyed their recipes and look forward to more.

Menu:
No-Cream Cauliflower Soup
Yam Cakes
Paneer
Coconut Chutney


No-Cream Cauliflower Soup
from Bal Arneson's Everyday Indian

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This was excellent, the winner of the evening. It was also incredibly easy and healthy. Nate was licking the bowl. I would never stoop to such crude behavior.

makes 4 1-cup servings

1 medium head cauliflower, or two small, chopped
2 1/2 cups water
2 T grapeseed oil (I used 1, and you could easily use canola or olive)
1 T grated ginger
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp Chana Masala (you can make your own or buy it already mixed)
1 1/2 tsp salt
1/4 cup 2% milk (I used whole)

1. Bring the cauliflower and water to a boil, then simmer on low heat until tender, about 5 minutes. Take off the heat and let cool a bit.
2. Using a blender or immersion blender, blend until creamy. Return to heat and bring to a boil.
3. In a small skillet, combine the oil, ginger, cumin, chana masala, and salt over medium heat. Cook for 2 minutes, then stir into the cauliflower.
4. Turn off the heat and stir in the milk.


Yam Cakes
adapted from Bal Arneson's Everyday Indian

These were included simply because we had bunch of leftover chopped root vegetables from another dinner. The recipe calls for yams, but we used approximately equal parts sweet potato, carrot, and parsnip. The parsnip didn't mash up as uniformly as the sweet potato and carrot, but I liked it that way. It gave the cakes more texture, and parsnips are so tasty! Nate made these, and they were perfect little accompaniments to the soup.

DSCF7951

makes 14 2" patties

2 cups cooked/mashed root vegetables, such as sweet potatoes, carrots, and parsnips
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 T low-fat plain yogurt
1 T garam masala
1 T grated fresh ginger
1 tsp salt
1 1/2 tsp grapeseed oil

1. Mix everything but the oil in a bowl until well blended. Form into small patties.
2. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat.
3. Cook the patties in batches so they have plenty of room and aren't crowding each other. Cook on each side until golden brown, about 2-3 minutes per side.

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Paneer
from Bal Arneson's Everyday Indian

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I made this because it looked like fun. It turns out it is very easy to make your own cheese! Just be careful when you're boiling the milk, because it takes approximately 2.7 seconds for it to boil over and make a big mess on your stove top.

1 gallon 2% milk
1/2 cup white vinegar
1 large square of cheesecloth

1. Bring the milk to a boil in a large pot, stirring so it doesn't burn. Add the vinegar and stir until the solids and liquid separate.
2. Line a colander with the cheesecloth and carefully pour the mixture in to drain. Fold the cheesecloth over the curds and place a heavy sauce pan on top for 20 minutes while it drains.
3. Remove the cheese from the cheesecloth (hey! I just realized why it's called cheesecloth!!) and cut it into cubes. Use immediately, either fried or plain, or freeze.

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Quick Red Chile and Coconut Chutney
from Anjum Anand's Anjum's New Indian

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makes 1/2 cup

1/4 c dried unsweetened shredded coconut
1/2 c coconut milk (I used light)
1/8" piece of ginger, peeled and grated
1 1/2 tsp lemon juice
salt, to taste
1/2-1 tsp pure red chile powder, or to taste (I used half-sharp Hungarian paprika)
1 tsp vegetable oil (I used 1/2 tsp)
1 tsp brown mustard seeds

1. Stir together the coconut, milk, lemon juice, ginger, salt, and pepper.
2. Heat the oil in a small skillet and add the mustard seeds. Cook them until the start to pop, then remove from heat. Stir them into the chutney.

Saturday, January 8, 2011

I fancy myself some fancy.

You've got to love living in a climate where you can fire up the grill in the middle of January. Tonight we served up the fancy, dry-aged, $25.99/lb ribeye steak that was our backup for Christmas dinner. I now wish I had also bought one of the $8.99/lb ribeyes for comparison; I mean, it was very good, but I don't know that my palate is sophisticated enough to really tell the difference. Caviar would probably be wasted on me, too.

We also made a trip to the farmers' market this morning and picked up some beautiful broccoli, so I felt pressured to highlight it in some other way than our usual steamed version. Thus, the broccoli soup amuse bouche was born.

My favorite part of the meal was the sweet potatoes, so I hope you enjoy them, too.

And, in case you were wondering, The Rolls from our New Year's Eve dinner were still stupendous after being frozen and reheated.

Menu:
Mini Broccoli Soups with Gruyere

Smoky Rosemary Sweet Potatoes with Blue Cheese

Grilled Ribeye

Steamed Broccoli

Herbed Garlic-Cheddar Rolls


Mini Broccoli Soups with Gruyere


DSCF7938

I got the idea for these little soup shooters from a wonderful local restaurant, noca. We went there for Christmas Eve dinner and were served various amuse bouche throughout the meal, one of which was an incredible butternut squash bisque served in a demitasse. I made this soup while the sweet potatoes were roasting.

makes approximately 1 cup

cooking spray
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 c chopped carrot
1/4 c chopped potato, or one small red potato
1 c chopped broccoli
1/2 c chicken or vegetable broth
1/4 c skim milk
1 oz gruyere cheese, shredded
1/8 tsp grated nutmeg
salt and pepper
dash of cayenne or Aleppo pepper to taste
small steamed broccoli florets for garnish

1. In a small saucepan, saute the garlic in cooking spray for one minute. Add the rest of the vegetables and saute for 3 minutes
2. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 10-15 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.
3. Stir in the milk. Using an immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth.
4. Stir in the cheese and heat gently to melt.
5. Add the spices to taste. Garnish with steamed florets and serve in small cups.


Smoky Rosemary Sweet Potatoes with Blue Cheese

DSCF7940

I accidentally charred the potatoes and rosemary, and the scent of smoky rosemary was heady and unexpectedly savory. The blue cheese, in my opinion, contrasted perfectly with the sweet potatoes and the smoked, charred rosemary. Nate had his without cheese, since he doesn't like blue cheese. I know, I'm trying to overlook this.

makes two generous servings

1 large sweet potato, cut into 1/2" cubes
1 T fresh rosemary, minced
1/4 tsp olive oil
1-2 grinds each of salt and pepper
1 oz crumbled blue cheese

1. Heat the grill.
2. Lightly steam the potatoes in the microwave for 1-2 minutes to get them started.
3. Place the potatoes in the center of a large square of aluminum foil, scatter the rosemary over the top, drizzle the olive oil and sprinkle the salt and pepper. Wrap the potatoes in the foil to make a packet.
4. Roast over high heat for 7-10 minutes or until the potatoes are soft and the bottom layer is slightly charred (slightly! You want a slight smoky taste here, not a brick of charcoal!).
4. Transfer the potatoes to a bowl and toss with the blue cheese, serve immediately.

DSCF7939

Dessert


Sometimes you need to balance out the fancy with some low-brow. I've been on a quest to replicate my childhood soft-serv experiences at the popular summer grease-joint, Minnehan's*, in Lakeville, NY. We went to get ice cream practically every summer night for about 17 years of my life. It was a nightly dilemma: do I get a kiddie vanilla cone with rainbow sprinkles or chocolate dip-top? Ack. It was agonizing.

Sprinkles usually won.

*Oh my goodness, I cannot believe Minnehan's has a website. Times have changed.

I had a flash of brilliance the other day when I saw this sure-to-be-good-for-you product in the grocery store:

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I had recently realized that the answer to my soft-serv quest might very well lay mere steps from my door:

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So after dinner tonight, I put it to the test. I was prepared at the drive-thru with all of the necessary equipment:

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Mr. Sprinkles;
A bowl, giving me the option to roll the cone, Minnehan's style;
A spoon, just in case the ice cream was too soft to risk rolling and thus dropping out of the cone.
I ended up going with the roll option. And lo, it was good.

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Wednesday, January 5, 2011

International Night

Well, we were all over the map with this one. It was another chilly night here in the desert, so a big pot of beans was in order. Borracho beans, to be exact. A nice warm piece of Irish Soda Bread complemented the beans nicely, and we rounded out the meal with a hearty Cobb salad.

Enjoy.

Menu:
Drunken (Borracho) Beans
Irish Soda Bread
Cobb Salad with Oven-Dried Tomatoes and Creamy Peppercorn Blue Cheese Dressing


Borracho Beans

The Rancho Gordo Cookbook

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4 cups cooked pinto beans, in their broth
1 bottle lager
2 slices high-quality bacon, diced
1/2 medium yellow or white onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3-4 serrano chiles, seeded if desired, and chopped
1/2 pound cremini mushrooms, sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Lime wedges for serving

1. In a stockpot over medium heat, warm the beans and their broth. Add the beer and simmer to cook off some of the beer, about 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a small, heavy skillet over medium heat, saute the bacon until the fat is nearly rendered and the bacon is brown, about 10 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
3. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat in the pot. Add the onion, garlic, and chiles, and saute over medium heat until soft and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Add the mushrooms and saute until wilted and soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in the cooked bacon.
4. Add the mushroom mixture to the beans, season with salt and pepper, and cook until the flavors are blended, about 10 minutes.

Serve the beans with warm tortillas and lime wedges.

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Irish Soda Bread
adapted from Baking With Julia

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Hmm. This is a terrible picture; it looked much browner and more homey in real life.

serves 2

1 c flour
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 plus 1/8 tsp salt
1/2 c buttermilk

1. Preheat the oven to 375F
2. Combine all ingredients to form a soft dough. Knead for 1 minute.
3. Form into a round loaf and bake for 25 minutes, or until browned.
4. Cut into individual servings.


Cobb Salad
adapted from Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc At Home

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serves 1

2 c romaine lettuce, chopped
2 T red onion, diced
1 hard-boiled egg, sliced
1 bacon slice, crumbled
4 oven-dried tomato halves, diced (see recipe below)
1/4 of an avocado, diced
2 T Creamy Peppercorn Blue Cheese dressing (see recipe below)

1. Combine all ingredients, sprinkle with fresh ground black pepper, and serve.


Creamy Peppercorn Blue Cheese Dressing
adapted from Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc At Home

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makes 3/4 cup

1/4 tsp black peppercorns, coarsely ground
2 T honey
2 T rice vinegar
2 T lowfat plain yogurt, preferably Greek
2 T lowfat mayonnaise or aioli
3 T buttermilk
1/4 tsp garlic powder
2 T crumbled blue cheese

1. In a small saucepan, heat the peppercorns, honey and vinegar to boiling. Simmer until reduced by half, about 5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, whisk together the yogurt, mayonnaise, and buttermilk. Stir in the warm honey mixture.
3. Stir in the garlic powder and blue cheese. Keep refrigerated until ready to serve.


Oven-Dried Tomatoes
adapted from Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc At Home

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These are really good and easy, provided you think far enough ahead to account for cooking time. But even if you don't (like, say, you also need to oven for something else cooked at a higher tenperature), you can set the tomatoes aside temporarily and continued cooking them as you have time. These are not the rubbery, chewy, leathery tomatoes you're likely to find in the dried fruit section of the store; these are juicy and very concentrated, a great addition to salads and pastas. I have made them both with and without oil, and both ways work great. Also, the original recipe calls for thyme; I have only had oregano on hand each time, so I think any herb would do.

12 Roma tomatoes
ice bath
1 T olive oil
salt and pepper
fresh thyme or oregano springs

1. Prepare an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice and topping it off with water. Set aside.
2. Core the tomatoes and score an X on the bottom of each one, extending the cut 2/3 of the way up the tomato.
3. Bring a large pot of water to boil. Drop the tomatoes in and cook just long enough for the skin to start pulling away, about 30 seconds.
4. Plunge the tomatoes into the ice bath.
5. Peel the skins and cut each tomato in half lengthwise.
6. Heat the oven to 200F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
7. Place the tomatoes, cut-side up, on the baking sheet. Drizzle with oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and sprinkle the herbs over the tomatoes.
8. Bake for 5-7 hours, or until shriveled. Store in the refrigerator for up to a week.

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Sunday, January 2, 2011

Baby, It's Caldo Out There!!!

Whoo, it is fa-REE-zing here in Phoenix. Literally. There were actual ice crystals on my windshield this morning. There was a time when I kept no fewer than three ice scrapers in my car...but those silly New England days are long gone, so when winter deals us a frosty blow here in the desert, we just about lose our minds.

But first we make soup. Yum.

Menu:
Spinach Salad with Apples and Blueberries
Chicken Tortilla Soup


Spinach Salad with Apples and Blueberries

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Made by my famous barista, inspired by a salad made by our friend Christina, last night when we were treated for dinner at her house.

serves 2

2 c baby spinach
1 tart, crunchy apple, such as Honeycrisp or Granny Smith
1/4 c blueberries
2 T dried cranberries
1 T candied nuts, chopped (we used toffee almonds)
dressing of choice, preferably a fruit vinaigrette of some kind

1. Toss all of the ingredients together and divide into two salad bowls. Drizzle with dressing and serve.

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Chicken Tortilla Soup

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Inspired by what was already in the pantry and the fact that I have been chilled to the bone ALL DAY. It hit the spot. It's essentially a chicken-vegetable soup, thickened with a roux of corn-tortillas and flavored with chiles.

serves 4

1 tsp oil
1 large carrot, diced
1 large parsnip, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 large celery stalk, diced
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and diced
4 small red potatoes, unpeeled and cubed
2 dried chile peppers, such as ancho, pasilla, or chipotle
3 c chicken broth
3 c water
2 tsp Knorr Caldo de Tomate (tomato-flavored chicken bouillon), or tomato paste
3 c diced or shredded cooked chicken breast (about 2 medium boneless/skinless breasts)
1/2 c frozen corn kernels
2 corn tortillas, stale, or dried in a 400F oven for about 7 minutes
1 T butter
1/2 c whole milk, warmed
1/4 c fresh cilantro, minced

1. In a large soup pot, saute the carrot, parsnip, celery, garlic, jalapeno, and potatoes for 5 minutes. Add the two dried peppers.
2. Add the broth and water and bring to a boil.
3. Stir in the bouillon or tomato paste and reduce heat to a simmer. Simmer for at least 30 minutes, then stir in the chicken and corn.
4. Place the dried tortillas in a food processor or blender and pulse until pulverized. It's OK if there are still large chunks of tortilla; mine did not grind into a powder even after several minutes of processing.
5. In a small saucepan, melt the butter and stir in the pulverized tortillas. Stir in about 1/2 cup of the hot soup, a little bit at a time, stirring constantly to allow the tortillas to absorb the broth before adding more. Do the same the warmed milk until you have a thick, paste-like sauce.
6. Add the tortilla sauce to the soup, a little at a time, whisking to combine.
7. Add the cilantro and serve.

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Friday, December 31, 2010

No vampires here, no sir.

New Year's Eve: different verse, same as the first.

We spent NYE in much the same way as Christmas Day last week; cooking, eating, and watching football. And lo, it was good.

I realized about halfway through dinner prep that everything I was making featured garlic prominently. And that's the way I like it!

Enjoy.

Menu:
Hot Mulled Cider
King Crab Legs
Herbed Garlic-Cheddar Rolls
Root Vegetable Mash
Lamb Chops with Rosemary Pan Sauce
Garlicky Green Beans
Blueberry Shortcakes with Lemon Cream

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Hot Mulled Cider

Props to Nate for coming up with this as a menu item. I always love anything that lets me use oranges, which are in abundance in our front yard right now.

64 oz apple cider
2 oranges, sliced and pits removed
1" piece of fresh ginger, sliced into thin coins
10 whole cloves
3 cinnamon sticks
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

1. Combine the cider, oranges, ginger, cloves, and cinnamon sticks in a stockpot and bring to a boil.
2. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add to the mixture. Drop the bean pod in, as well.
3. Reduce heat to a simmer. Simmer for 10-15 minutes and pour through a strainer into mugs.


Herbed Garlic-Cheddar Rolls

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The hit of the meal! We're suffering through a cold-snap here in Phoenix (OK, you can just can your laughter. It's COLD, alright?), and I had visions of warm, soft bread-dough rising in my oven and the resulting homey hominess that would ensue as it baked. I could almost hear Tiny Tim knocking on our door.

There is a restaurant in my hometown, Rochester, NY, called Mario's. It's Italian, surprisingly enough. It has been around forever, and we used to go there regularly when I was little. They had a salad bar with a big basket of fresh rolls that was replenished throughout the night. I could down probably 10 of those suckers in one sitting, I kid you not. They were yeasty, chewy, herby, French bread rolls that I have never seen anywhere else, UNTIL NOW. These are those rolls, recreated accidentally, in my own kitchen.

Also, if you are afraid of baking bread, don't be. It's not hard. Pioneer women did it for ages, and so can you.

makes 16 rolls

1 head garlic
1 tsp olive oil
salt and pepper
1 packet active dry yeast
1 1/2 c warm water
1 T sugar
4 c flour
2 T olive oil
1 tsp salt
2 oz sharp cheddar cheese, grated
1 T fresh rosemary, minced
1 T fresh oregano, minced
cooking spray

1. Preheat the oven to 400F.
2. Peel any extra paper off the outside of the garlic head, keeping the head intact. Slice off the top of the head, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Wrap the head in foil and bake for 1 hour. Set aside.
3. Sprinkle the yeast and sugar over the water to activate the yeast. It should lightly bubble/foam after about 5 minutes, signifying it is ready.
4. In a food processor with the dough blade, add the flour, salt, olive oil, roasted garlic, cheese, and herbs. Pulse a few times until combined.
5. With the processor running, add the yeast mixture to the flour and process until it comes together in a ball, about 1 minute.
6. With floured hands, remove the ball from the processor and knead for a few minutes until smooth and elastic. Add more flour as needed to prevent dough from sticking to your hands.
7. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place the dough ball in the bowl and roll to cover with spray. Cover the bowl with a dishtowel and set aside for 1 hour, until dough has doubled in size.
8. Heat the oven to 400F.
9. Punch down the dough and turn out onto a floured surface. Divide into 16 equal pieces and roll each piece into a rough ball.
10. Working in batches, bake the rolls on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper for 16-18 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool on a rack.


Root Vegetable Mash

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A vet school classmate of mine made this for a dinner gathering once; I have made it several times since. It's a nice, easy twist on mashed potatoes.

serves 2, generously

1 medium Yukon Gold potato, peeled and cubed
1 medium sweet potato, peeled and cubed
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into chunks
1 large parsnip, peeled and cut into chunks
4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 large sprig rosemary
1 cup low fat milk

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the potatoes, carrot, parsnip, and garlic. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 15 minutes or until the vegetables are very soft.
2. Meanwhile, heat the milk and rosemary in a small saucepan. Be careful not to scald; you are simply steeping the rosemary in the milk until ready to stir into the vegetables.
3. Drain the water and mash the vegetables coarsely with a fork.
4. Remove the rosemary from the milk. Stir in enough of the milk to the vegetable mash to bring it to the desired consistency.
5. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Lamb Chops with Rosemary Pan Sauce

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serves 2

1 tsp olive oil
2 garlic gloves, minced
1 T fresh rosemary, minced
4-6 small Australian lamb chops
salt and pepper
1/3 c dry white wine

1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and rosemary and saute for about 1 minute.
2. Set the lamb chops on the garlic/rosemary, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook for 3-4 minutes, then turn to cook on the other side. Cook to the desired doneness, then remove to a plate and set aside.
3. Add the wine to the pan and deglaze, scraping up all the tasty browned bits. Boil the pan sauce for 1 minute, then remove from heat. Return the chops to the pan to coat with the sauce before serving.


Garlicky Green Beans

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serves 2

1/2 tsp olive oil
1 tsp butter
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tsp concentrated chicken stock, such as Better Than Bouillon
1/2 c dry white wine
2 generous handfuls fresh green beans, ends trimmed and cut into 2" pieces

1. Saute the garlic in the oil and butter for about 1 minute. Add the chicken stock concentrate and white wine and bring to a boil.
2. Add the green beans, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook until the liquid has reduced by half and the beans are bright green and crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately.


Blueberry Shortcakes with Lemon Cream

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I had intended to make these from scratch, but didn't realize until I had already whipped my entire carton of cream that most shortcake recipes call for cream or shortening or some other ingredient I didn't have. So I grabbed the trusty box of Bisquick from the shelf and made a mental note to flog myself later. Hey, Bisquick is good stuff and it made a respectable shortcake biscuit.

You might ask, "These look good, but are they still good for breakfast the next morning?"

Excellent question. Yes, yes they are. I'm always happy to do culinary research for you.

makes 3 biscuits

Lemon Cream
1 pint heavy whipping cream
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 T powdered sugar
zest of 1/2 of a lemon

1. Whip the cream until soft peaks form.
2. Add the vanilla, sugar, and zest, and whip to combine.

Blueberry Sauce
1 T butter
1/4 c red currant jelly (any berry jelly would work here, or even a nice lemon marmalade)
6 oz fresh or frozen blueberries

1. In a small skillet, heat the butter and jelly until melted.
2. Add the blueberries and heat over medium heat for 5 minutes, mashing some of the berries with the back of a spoon.
3. Let cool slightly before serving. It will thicken a bit.

Shortcakes
1 heaping c Bisquick baking mix
juice and zest of 1/2 of a lemon
1 T sugar
1/3 cup milk
1 T butter, melted

1. Preheat the oven to 425F.
2. Combine all the ingredients in a bowl to make a soft dough.
3. Drop the dough onto a parchment paper-lined baking sheet to make 3 equal biscuits.
4. Bake for 10-15 minutes or until lightly browned on top.
5. Remove from oven, slice in half, and top with blueberries and cream.

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Friday, December 24, 2010

Holy Smoke!

We had a very laid-back Christmas. We didn't travel anywhere and we didn't have anyone over for dinner. It was just the two of us, so we cooked all day and then ate all night while watching basketball and football. It was great. I think Jesus would approve.

The only thing I'm not posting is the recipe for the Sweet Potato Gratin. It did not turn out well for some reason; it was very watery and just didn't set up. Everything else was pretty fantastic.

Menu:
Smoked Brisket
Snow Crab Legs
Baked Macaroni and Cheese
Sweet Potato Rosemary Gratin
Steamed Broccoli
Rote Grutzl
Lemony Lemon Tapioca Pudding
Butterscotch Banana Bread Pudding


Smoked Brisket

OK, there are ten billion brisket recipes out there. They're probably all good. This was our first time smoking a brisket; so far, we have done a Thanksgiving turkey, and salmon, and now brisket. We're 3 for 3.

Quoth Nate, "That was the best piece of meat I have ever eaten in my LIFE."

So I guess he liked it?

All of the meats we've tried so far have cooked a lot faster than most recipes predict, and I can't really explain it, but I'm not complaining. Also, most of the recipes I came across for brisket said to buy more than you think you need because the meat shrinks during the smoking process. So I bought 5 pounds (yes, for two of us...I wanted leftovers, OK??), and I would say we ended up with, oh, 4 7/8 pounds after shrinkage. So, yeah. We have some leftovers.

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5-lb brisket with ~1/4" fat cap on one side
spice rub of your choice (I used a one of those McCormick Grillmasters rubs with lots of cracked black pepper...probably anything would work fine)

1. Sprinkle the spice rub generously on both sides of the brisket the day before.
2. Heat the smoker according to instructions (we have a Brinkmann vertical electric water smoker and used hickory chips), fill the water dish about half full with water, and pour two beers in to top it off. I have no idea if the beers make a difference, but it felt more gourmet that way.
3. Smoke the brisket, fat side up. I soaked my wood chips in water and added more every 30 minutes; that seemed to be about when the smoke started to die down. Also, a few times I just used dry chips, which also works fine, but I think they burn more quickly (um, duh). Mine reached the recommended internal temp of 140-145 F in about 3 1/2 hours.
4. Remove the brisket from the smoker and let rest for 30 minutes before slicing across the grain.

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My brisket was a touch tougher toward the middle, at the thickest part. So I sliced the ends to serve for dinner (and they had that beautiful rosy ring round the edges...yum) and wrapped the rest up in foil and stuck it in the oven at 275 for another 30 minutes or so before slicing it to pack away in the freezer.

Snow Crab Legs

This is one of our favorite special occasion foods. But honestly, they're so easy to prepare, we could seriously have them every night. Usually I go for Alaskan King Crab, but Whole Foods only had these little ones. They were good, but definitely not as meaty. To prepare them from frozen, wrap them in foil and heat in the oven at 350 for 30 minutes or until heated through. Alternatively, you can put them in a baking dish, cover with plastic wrap, and heat in the microwave for about 5 minutes. Easy peasy.


Baked Macaroni and Cheese

One of my favorite comfort foods. I am sure I am not alone in that. Many years ago I learned the technique of using part chicken broth in the cheese sauce (called a Veloute sauce), which lightens and brightens an otherwise heavy cream sauce.

I have made this cheese sauce with many varieties of cheese, usually with whatever is left in the cheese drawer. It's great with a sharp cheddar as its base, but very nice with any other cheese as a supplement: parmesan, gruyere, goat, feta, swiss, blue, what have you. I've never met a cheese I didn't like. Nutmeg gives it a nice, deep flavor, and I often sprinkle smoked paprika or chipotle in there for some kick.

This is a basic mac and cheese recipe that can be baked or made on the stove top, and can also be embellished with broccoli, chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, or anything else that sounds good on a tired weeknight.

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Ugh. Pay no attention to the sad excuse for a gratin in this picture.

Serves 2

2 cups whole wheat macaroni, rotini, fusilli, or any other shape you like
1 T flour
1 T butter
1/4 c low fat milk, warmed
1/4 c chicken or vegetable broth, warmed
1 oz sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
1 oz gruyere cheese, shredded
1/4 tsp grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp smoked paprika or chipotle* pepper
black pepper to taste
additional shredded cheese to top, about 1/2 oz
fresh bread crumbs
cooking spray

1. Boil the pasta in water until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain and set aside.
2. In a small saucepan, whisk together the flour and the butter over medium heat until smooth.
3. Combine the milk and broth and gradually whisk into the flour mixture, a tablespoonful at a time. You're making a smooth white sauce here, and if you don't start slowly, it can break apart and you'll be left with hot milk with floury lumps. If that happens, there's no rescuing it; toss it and start over.
4. After you've added all of the liquid, stir constantly over medium heat until it starts to thicken, then lower the heat and whisk in the cheeses.
5. Season with the nutmeg, chipotle, and black pepper.
6. Transfer the pasta to a small baking dish or individual ramekins. Pour the cheese sauce over the pasta. Sprinkle additional shredded cheese over the pasta.
7. Top with breadcrumbs and spray with cooking spray.
8. Bake, uncovered, at 350 for 30 minutes or until the sauce is bubbling.

*Rant #1: It's pronounced chi-POTE-lay. Not chi-POLT-ay. Just look at the letters, the t comes BEFORE the l. Argh! It drives me bonkers when people mispronounce this word! Second only to mispronouncing nuclear!!! (GWB, I'm looking in your direction...). Also, espresso does not have an X. You take an EXpress train, but you drink an ESpresso. Oy; I should stop now.

Lemony Lemon Tapioca Pudding
adapted from a recipe found on the blog Pinch My Salt


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The inspiration for this pudding came from having received a few Meyer lemons from a friend (if you've never smelled a Meyer lemon, you're missing out...they are so flowery and perfumy I have been known to just hold them to my nose while writing up charts at my desk).

I was trying to think of what dessert would do them justice, and I thought I'd try to make some variation of rote grutzl. But rote grutzl's body comes from the raspberries, and I couldn't figure out how to do that with lemons, so it morphed into more of a creamy pudding. Then I stumbled across a recipe for candied lemons, and lo, it was a Christmas miracle. Or something. It was tasty, anyway.

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You can definitely stop before adding the cream, but it's pretty darn luscious with that added bit of sin. Come on, it's Christmas. Splurge.

1/4 c small pearl tapioca
1 c whole milk
1 large egg yolk
1/4 c sugar
1/8 tsp salt
1/2 of a vanilla bean, or 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
zest of 1/2 a lemon
1/4 c fresh lemon juice, preferably Meyer
1/4 c well-chilled heavy cream
5 candied lemon slices, diced (before they've been dredged in sugar)
additional whipped cream for serving

1. Soak the tapioca in water for 30 minutes, then drain. Do not rinse.
2. In a medium saucepan, whisk together the milk, egg yolk, sugar, and salt.
3. Slice the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape the seeds into the milk mixture, then drop the bean pods in. If you are using extract, this will get stirred in later.
4. Heat the mixture to a gentle simmer, stirring constantly. When small bubbles start to form around the edge of the pot, turn the heat to low and simmer, stirring, for 15-20 minutes, until the tapioca is soft and translucent. Remove from heat.
5. Stir in the lemon juice and lemon zest (and vanilla extract). Let cool to room temperature or cover with plastic wrap and chill until you are ready to fold in the cream.
6. Stir the diced candied lemon pieces into the pudding.
7. Whip the chilled cream until soft peaks form. Fold it into the pudding.
8. Serve chilled. Top with whipped cream or lemon marmalade.


Rote Grutzl


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One of my favorite holiday desserts. Probably not authentic, but I grew up with this version from the Rochester Junior League cookbook, Applehood and Mother Pie.

1 bag of frozen raspberries, 10-12 oz.
1/2 c red currant jelly
1 1/2 c plus two T cold water
3 1/2 T instant tapioca
heavy cream, either whipped or not

1. In a medium saucepan, combine everything except the cream and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook for 5 minutes, stirring to make sure it doesn't boil over.
2. Remove from heat and pour into a bowl. Let cool for 20 minutes, then refrigerate overnight until. It will thicken as it cools.
3. Serve chilled with cream.



Candied Lemons

I used a recipe posted on this lovely blog, Figs With Bri. This is a two-day process, just so you're prepared. It's easy, though, and the actual interactive parts don't take much time or effort; you're mostly just waiting for the lemons to sit and absorb the syrup. I used regular lemons for this, but I bet it would be over the top with Meyer lemons . As an added bonus, I'm pretty sure I accidentally made marmalade. The cooking syrup smelled too good to throw away, so I put it in a container in the refrigerator while I pondered what to use it for. The next morning I was rewarded with a container of sweet lemon marmalade, also fabulous atop the lemon tapioca!

4 lemons, sliced into 1/4" slices
2 c sugar
extra sugar for coating (about 1/2 cup)

1. Place the lemon slices in a large saucepan and fill the pan with enough water to submerge the lemons. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 15 minutes, until the rinds are tender.
2. Set a large cooling rack over a layer of paper towels next to the stove. Transfer the lemons slices to the rack to drain.
3. Pour two cups of the cooking liquid into a smaller sauce pan and add the sugar. Heat over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
4. Remove the syrup from heat and pour into a large bowl. Add the lemons and stir to coat. Cover and let sit at room temperature for 8 hours.
5. Transfer the syrup and lemons to a medium saucepan and cook over medium-low heat for 30 minutes. The syrup will have reduced; if it gets absorbed completely before the time is up, turn off the heat to avoid scorching.
6. Use a slotted spoon to arrange the lemon slices in a single layer on a sheet of wax paper or foil. Let sit at room temperature overnight.

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7. Dredge the slices in sugar to coat. Let dry for 3 hours before storing in an airtight container, in single layers separated by wax paper.

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Butterscotch Banana Bread Pudding

adapted from Small-Batch Baking, by Debby Maugans Nakos

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This is a great little book that I don't use nearly enough. Actually, tonight was the first time I've used it, and it's been languishing on the shelf for years! I look forward to making more from this.

I basically followed the recipe, but I used challah for the bread and layered sliced bananas on the bottoms of the ramekins before adding the bread pudding mixture. Mine made three servings, not two, but I think my ramekins were a little small. Also, I used Dewar's in the butterscotch sauce instead of Jack Daniel's, and I sprinkled chopped candied almonds over before serving. **

Puddings
unsalted butter, at room temperature, for greasing the ramekins (I used cooking spray)
3/4 c half-and-half or whole milk (I used whole milk)
1/4 c firmly packed dark brown sugar
1 T unsalted butter
pinch salt
1 large egg
white of 1 large egg
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
2 c day-old "hearth-baked" bread cubes (1/2" cubes), such as ciabatta, country French, or country Italian

Tennessee Butterscotch Sauce
1/2 c sugar
2 T Jack Daniel's or bourbon whiskey
2 T water
1 1/2 T unsalted butter

1/2 banana, sliced thin (optional)
chopped candied almonds or toffee bits (optional)
whipped cream

1. Grease the ramekins. Preheat the oven to 350.
2. Heat the half-and-half, brown sugar, butter and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and stir constantly until the sugar melts, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
3. Whisk the egg and white together in a medium bowl. Gradually pour the hot cream mixture into the beaten egg, whisking vigorously as you pour to avoid scrambling the egg.
4. Stir in the vanilla. Then add the bread to the cream mixture and stir well to combine. Let the mixture stand, pressing down on the bread to submerge it, for 10 minutes or until saturated.
5. Divide the mixture between the ramekins and bake until puffed and golden, about 30-35 minutes. Let cool on a rack for 10 minutes.

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6. To make the sauce, heat the sugar in a small sauce pan over medium heat, stirring with a fork, until melted and dark amber colored (about 20 minutes).
7. Remove from heat and carefully pour the water and whiskey down the side of the pan. It will hiss and bubble violently and the sugar will separate.
8. Return to heat and stir until melted again, then remove from heat and stir in the butter. It will keep for 4 days in the refrigerator.

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9. Unmold the ramekins and spoon the sauce over each pudding to serve. Serve with cream

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**Rant #2: Why can't I find toffee bits ANYWHERE? I can find chocolate-covered toffee bits and Heath bars and Heath Bar bits and Skor bars, but I'm not about to scrape the chocolate off just to get to the toffee. There are some people in this world who don't like chocolate!!

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All I want for Christmas is that entire brisket you're slicing up.
My life: it is hard.